【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

jason · 发表于 2008-5-8 05:10

受益匪浅！呵呵很厉害。不过多发点参考的其它资料吧。或者TONY他的网址？

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waffen26 · 发表于 2008-5-8 10:48

<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder">以下是引用兵人新手在2008-5-7 8:17:00的发言： 一直研究中.......Z大的资料很及时啊!我的方法比他简化点</div>兄弟也來分享一下您簡易的作法吧!!謝謝!!

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ZIP · 发表于 2008-5-8 11:08

还好我注册了好几年了

但是我是个潜水份子

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兵人新手 · 发表于 2008-5-7 08:17

一直研究中.......Z大的资料很及时啊!我的方法比他简化点

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fh · 发表于 2008-5-7 07:17

四个字“叹为观止”

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水晶之夜 · 发表于 2008-5-7 07:45

好教程。。。。。不过要找到合适的皮革也不容易啊。市面上的皮革太厚。。。。。

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ZIP · 发表于 2008-5-7 06:35

Here are my pair of Sculpey lasts : almost identical , with square toes . First use these to roughly mark out an oversize sole , and pin the sole to the board:

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

The cut the fronts of the uppers : the piece of leather should be roughly the shape shown :

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

Soak it in water , then , with a blunt tool ( I use a spatula ) gently work it to fit over the front of the last , taking particular care to get the “welt” you are forming with the tool well under the bottom of the last : the further under you can get it , the better the fit of the shoe .

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

Leave to dry : the dry leather will stay in shape. Once dry , you can make stitch holes with your awl going through the upper and the sole :

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

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ZIP · 发表于 2008-5-7 06:37

Take a needle , with a waxed thread , and sew the upper and sole together . This can be a bit fiddly , but so long as you keep the holes matching , it should work out in the end . I use two needles , saddle stitching as it’s called , but you can go round and back with one needle if you prefer:

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

Wet the welt and burnish it all to shape again. Then the backs ( in the originals , the backs are actually in two pieces , but it’s quite possible to make them in one in 1/6th ). Notice that the back is quite curved : this is essential to make it deep enough for the heel , yet tight enough at the top to lie close to the ankle. Repeat the procedure as with the front : the back slightly overlaps the front on each side:

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

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ZIP · 发表于 2008-5-7 06:41

You might want to add another layer to the sole : simply stick on ; the same for heels , which are stacked from as many pieces as you want :Here I've placed the sewn shoes on another layer to make the outer soles : once glued ( use any good glue : it could be white glue , or Bostik ) I'll trim round this and add the heels :

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

[ HISTORICAL NOTE : despite what you might think from countless “ medieval “ films , heels were not in use in Europe until 1600 : they come in almost exactly with the new century , probably after influence from Eastern Europe and ultimately the Turks , who seem to have been the first people to use them . Late medieval/ renaissance shoes did have attached , welted soles ( after about 1460 ) , and there was often a thickening lift towards the rear , but they never had separate heels until after 1600 ...... Any European figure before 1600 WILL NOT HAVE HEELS ! ] Dampen and burnish again , and your shoe is finished apart from the lace holes and colouring. Once you are happy with the shape , gently ease it off the last , and finish with a colour wash of acrylic , and some suitable laces:

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

Here are some more types I've made this way : Shoes from 1600 , with a raised but integral heel :

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

Some round-toed shoes from around 1630 :

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

And some ACW Brogans ( forgive the trouser legs ) :

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

GLUING instead of STITCHING : It’s quite possible to use this method using a last , but substituting glue for the stitching : but the leather will have to be really dry at each stage, or the glue won’t take on it . I haven’t tried it myself , preferring the “ scale “ stitching ; and the finished item is going to be a little less strong if you use glue ; but I’m sure it’s possible if you don’t fancy the sewing .The stitching can be faked with the awl once the glue is dry : dampen the leather again and scribe the stitching into the leather . __________________________________________________ ___________ Once you have some vegtan leather ; all sorts of improvement to commercial items becomes possible . You are only limited by time and skill . It’s well worth replacing Pleather straps with the real thing , since it eliminates the woven backing which often shows with pleather items. You can make leather holsters as well . Vegtan likes acrylic paint , which it soaks up , so it’s possible to turn it any colour you like ( experiment on a scrap first ); There are also a good range of spirit based leather dyes you can get from suppliers .You can use wax to get a shine after , or even use boot polish .

[此贴子已经被作者于2008-5-7 6:41:52编辑过]

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ZIP · 发表于 2008-5-7 06:44

BOOTS : The same technique can be used to make tall boots , for which you will need a full-height last , modelled in this pic in Sculpey again:

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

The pupose of the last is again to enable you to accurately shape each section before assembling it. Start with moulding the wet leather to make the foot , then the leg . You have to glue or stich the leg to the foot portion . It’s ESSENTIAL not to close the rear seam until you remove the last , or you will never get it out :

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

Once all the sections are joined , remove the last :

【参考】制作长筒靴和皮靴

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